First, I am so slow these days. It has been too long since I sent the last newsletter. I have decided to only do one newsletter to everyone, so that might help. We are also working on the Spring/Summer issue of Fashion For Real People. Be sure you have signed up on our Web site to receive the e-mail alerting you when it is ready. Also, if you have sewn a great garment and would like to submit photos and a description for possible inclusion in Fashion for Real People, please do so right away by sending me an email.

I have also streamlined the CSI program quite a bit. Those of you who just renewed got everything by e-mail. I made the certificate larger and as a PDF, so that you can print out as many 8 ½” X 11” copies as you need for all locations in which you might be teaching. We try to keep the Web site up to date, but allow at least 30 days as Linda works it in with all the other graphic things she does. For those of you who might have missed it, we are now doing CSI one year at a time. You need to earn 100 PDUs and it is $39 which gives you a listing on our Web site and a free Winky Cherry listing as well if you are teaching that system.

News!

JULY FIT WORKSHOP SOLD OUT, NEW DATE ADDED

We have a new date of October 3-6, 2008 added for fit with teacher training the 2^nd and 8^th.

NEW BOOK---HAND MENDING MADE EASY

We introduced this new book at the Puyallup show and people loved it. Many bought it for non-sewing friends and family—I wonder why!! Go to our Web site if you’d like to order your gift copies.  It is only $14.95.

 This book has won the 2008 Parent to Parent Adding Wisdom Award in three categories:

          HOT Product
          Getting Organized
          Books – General

Hand Mending Made Easy is \also getting Five Star reviews on Amazon.

Being able to mend a bit of clothing is economical, personally satisfying, and an indispensable skill that has almost been lost in the currents of our throw-away culture. The looming economic recession is beginning to introduce and instruct a whole new generation in the benefits of conserving garments through the use of a bit of needle and thread. Needlecraft expert Nan Ides' "Hand Mending Made Easy: Save Time And Money Repairing Your Own clothes" is specifically designed to teach novice sewers to use the economically beneficial option of making simple, common repairs ranging from sewing on buttons, to fixing seams, to ironing, to repairing broken zippers. Superbly organized, illustrated and presented, "Hand Mending Made Easy" is an ideal instruction manual and reference for students, bachelors, working women, and anyone else operating on a limited budget and needing to make their clothing look good while recovering from the inevitable wear and tear they are subjected to. Of special note is the chapter on when not to try mending a garment. "Hand Mending Made Easy" is a money-saving and enthusiastically recommended addition to any personal or community library Needlecraft reference shelf. Midwest Book Review

I love this book because it is clear and simple. It covers several basics: knotting a thread, sewing on buttons, hemming, repairing ripped seams, replacing elastic and more. The directions are easy enough for a child to understand yet it doesn't talk down to adults or teens. As a seamstress with over 30 years experience, I am now starting to teach others to sew. I have been looking for a reference book for students interested in doing their own mending and quick repairs. It is a perfect book for anyone who is not going to be using a sewing machine but still wants to do some sewing. Grace Mayorga, Emeryville, CA

NEW DVDs

Sewing…Good to Great, It’s in the Details is the newest Marta DVD. Marta shows a single-welt pocket which is shown on the cover. Contents are below. It is available on our Web site now www.palmerpletsch.com.

MENU

Perfect Darts      
                Fitting Darts
                Sewing Darts
                Pressing darts

Zippers
                Lapped Zipper
                Lapped Zipper Facing
                Invisible Zipper
                Invisible Zipper Facing

Finish the Edge
                Fusible Tape
                Bias Binding
                Serger Bias Binding

Pocket Styles
                Types and creative ideas

Single-welt Pocket
                Piping the Welt and Other Ideas

Lining
                Honk Kong Finish
                Camisole Lined to the Edge

Hems in Many Fabrics
                Hand Blind Hem * Machine Blind Hem * Hand Rolled Hem *
                Narrow Machine Hem * Serger Rolled Edge * Jeans Flat-felled Seams and Hems

Machine Embroidery Tips
                Stabilize with Perfect Sew
                 Placement tips

Covered Snaps Under BIG Buttons

PUYALLUP 2008

We had a wonderful show. We did three Vogue, Butterick, McCall’s fashion shows. We saw many of our teachers along with the myriads of people who flew in from around North America. Unique Solutions brought their latest scanner to the show. It is soooooo improved over the first one. There are two scanners mounted in a semi-truck trailer with two dressing rooms, computer stations, a sitting room etc. The new scanner even speaks to you. Also, you can now get a printout with your measurements and 3-D image of your body. There will be 6 trucks traveling around the country doing scanning in the near future. Best of all, the new scan price is $30 (no patterns included) but very affordable to the masses. They also have contracted with a jeans manufacturer in New Zealand who makes custom jeans based on a person’s scan. I am going to try out that one for sure!

FUN FACTS!

During a workshop dinner last fall, Marcy Lewis, Reno, and I found out we had a lot in common.

She is married to a basketball player who went to Pacific University, Forest Grove, Oregon. My dad went there on a basketball scholarship. Her husband is Mike Lewis. I dated a different Mike Lewis in high school in Missoula, Mt, a Parade All American first team basketball player who played for Duke. In fact, I was at THE GAME featured in the movie "Glory Road." Marcy grew up in St. Helens, Oregon. My grandma and uncle lived there...and on and on. Uncle worked for the lumber mill. My dad went into logging and her in-laws were in lumber.  At the Puyallup show, Marcy just told me that her husband knew may Uncle Glenn Johnson. What a coincident! 

NEW MCCALL’S PATTERNS

We love the new shirt #5433 and it is a best seller. You can see all Palmer/Pletsch designs on our Web site.  If you have any ideas of something you think is missing in the pattern books and that you think would make a good P & P idea, I am all ears!

BUST FIT SEMINAR

I created a new seminar focusing on fitting the bust for Puyallup. If anyone is interested in the seminar in Power Point on a CD with a script, let me know. I couldn’t write the script until May, so I’d say June would be the mailing time. I would do the same as the 20 Tips and it would be $40.

Now read on for news from YOU!

NEWS FROM YOU

RACHAEL CARLSON, MCKINLEYVILLE, CA

Having a Fit in Portland

OK – terrible pun, but I couldn’t resist.  Because for five days in January, that’s what I did, with the help of two expert fitters, in Portland, Oregon.

The class was called the Fit-a-thon, and for me, it truly was:  I cut, prepared, pinned, and altered ten (count ‘em) patterns.  In addition, I had several pairs of made-up trousers and a few blouses and tops critiqued by the experts.  Much accomplished!

Pati Palmer and Marta Alto are the expert eyes and hands of the enterprise.  The division of labor is this:  Marta, with her costumer’s background and incredibly acute eye for measurements, focuses on fitting bodices.  Pati focuses on fitting pants.  A great team! The week proceeded as follows:

·     Day 1 – The day began with a review of bodice fitting principles, including the opportunity to try the bodice slopers made from McCall’s 2719 so that Marta could determine one’s basic pattern size and cup size and identify potential alteration areas.  It was helpful to watch others being fitted, to see the needs of a variety of body types and figure quirks.  In the afternoon, after one of the caterer’s superb lunches, we all got to work on whatever patterns we wanted to fit.

·     Day 2 – The day began with a review of pants fitting principles.  Pati is the pants guru, so she took charge of that side of things.  Everyone had the opportunity to tissue-fit a pair of trousers, slacks, or jeans of their choice, to get the basic pattern size and necessary alterations.  In my case, I wore a different pair of my own custom-made trousers each day and had them critiqued.  The rest of the day we worked on our chosen projects.

·     Days 3, 4, and 5 – Marta offered some demonstrations that had been requested by participants:  applying a collar stand and collar to a tailored shirt; creating a placket front for a blouse; and other techniques.  These were optional and spaced out over time.  Meanwhile, we continued to cut, tape, pin, alter—until Pati said, “Who wants to go shopping?!”  The class is given in the P/P classroom in Fabric Depot, located fairly near heaven.  Pati guided us to new fabrics, fabrics she’s used, fabrics appropriate for our projects, fabrics in the best colors for us.  And then it was back into the sewing room for more pattern alterations—or sewing projects using our new purchases or fabrics brought from home.

A number of people made garments—jackets, pants, skirts; others simply worked on alterations.  But we all took advantage of the ability to embellish our stashes. 

By the end of the five days, I was exhausted.  The class closed with a graduation dinner at Pati’s wonderful historic house overlooking Portland’s city lights. 

I loved the opportunity to try designs I’d never sewn before—a wrap dress, for example.  And to learn how to make raglan sleeves fit my asymmetrical shoulders, and pants fit my pesky high hip.  I can’t say enough about the gracious and upbeat personalities of our two teachers.  There is no pressure; just lots of fun.  I would highly recommend this “sewing vacation” to anyone.  

Rachel Carlson                                               

NANCY SEIFERT, SAMMAMISH, WA

Hi Pati and Marta,

I just wanted to update you on the Pant workshop I did for the CTA's of Snohomish County. 

I was very pleased with the workshop, everything went very smoothly.  What a great bunch of ladies!  Almost everyone (11 total) completed their tissue fitting the first day.  Some went home and cut out their fabric, a few presented fitting challenges, and were finished tissue fitting by noon on Sunday.  Everyone got their zipper and darts in, and at least 1 fabric fitting.  A few actually finished their pants.  They were so happy with the workshop, I have already been asked to return in May to repeat it for those who couldn't attend. At the end of the workshop I had a blister on my knee from kneeling on the floor as there was no fitting platform (now I know why Marta sent them to me!). I also got laryngitis on Sunday, and still have it!

A comment that I wanted to pass along about the Palmer/Pletsch Web site is that several of the ladies had a hard time finding the pattern paper.  One completely gave up and swore that it was not there.  Of course it is, I checked it out from the stand point of someone who is looking at the P/P website for the first time.  I saw that it was not obvious where one would look to find it.  Maybe you want to put a button on the front page?  These ladies wiped out the inventory at several of our stores!

Some other very sad news is that the Issaquah Pacific Fabrics is closing the end of May.  The landlord increased the rent an outrageous amount for the new lease, and refused to budge.  The whole shopping area surrounding that store has really taken off, and he thinks he can get a bigger rent. Maybe he can, maybe he can't.  It just amazes me how easily someone can be put out of business.  The company is still on the look out for a suitable space for another store, but the real-estate prices are just crazy around here.

So, I am trying to figure out what I want to do.  I can move to another store and stay with the company (Sharon Stoffel wants to keep me).  I think I might be ready for something bigger, although I am not sure what.  I have thought of coming up with my own job for Pacific Fabrics, "Fashion Sewing Educator - at Large" or something like that.  I have to get used to the idea that I won't have my nice big classroom to work with.  Anyway, I am rambling.

I am teaching the "Jackets for Real People" for the last time at the Issaquah Pacific Fabrics in March/April.  Can you believe I have 9 students!!  Every one of my classes this winter has been full, with waiting lists.  Several in the Jacket class are repeats, including Laura Hefferan, who is still working on her Ultrasuede coat.  The lining is finished, and she is getting ready to attach the facing unit.  She has done more ripping out on that coat!  I think it is how she mediates or something. 

I sure am going to miss teaching at that store, but the other stores are scrambling to book me for their stores.  I am doing a 2 day pant workshop at Bremerton and Everette this May, and the Northgate store in August.  I am teaching the Beginning Sewing Series at Quality Sew' Vac in Issaquah this July and August. They are looking to expand their store in Issaquah, so there may be more teaching opportunities there.  They are thrilled to have the Palmer/Pletch program since they have not been able to get their own program going. I may need to recruit an apprentice/assistant to help me out!

Congratulations to Melissa and Allyse!  I checked out their website, and it is fabulous! I will use it for inspiration for my younger students.

Take care, I will probably see you at Expo!

Nancy Seifert

NOTE: Nancy and her husband Bill Bush took us out to dinner during the Puyallup show. What a blast!!  Also, many Clothing and Textile volunteers (CTA’s) stopped by the booth and raved about Nancy’s pant workshop. What good PR Nancy!

FROM CONNIE HAMILTON, HARTWELL, GA

Connie just moved from Indianapolis. She would like to share ideas with you about working with ASG:

“Almost every Chapter of the American Sewing Guild has a number of neighborhood groups which meet monthly and are always looking for program ideas. The Indianapolis Chapter has an annual meeting for neighborhood group leaders where they discuss Chapter business and share program ideas. A few years ago, I prepared a flyer on my interfacing class for inclusion in the jacket handout for each leader.

LESLIE WORNELL, LOS ALAMITOS, CA
I took the Beginning Sewing class this summer in Portland and started teaching a class in the school I work in (I'm actually the Registrar there).  It is a continuation high school so the kids are a challenge. I have 5 girls in my class, and although they moan and groan and tell me I'm tormenting them and it's too hard, I have had 100% attendance and it's obvious they really like it.  And quite frankly, I have had some of the best laughs ever, especially when Nichole tried to thread her bobbin thread herself from the bottom up and wanted to know how to get it into that "little hole".  Today we lay out our patterns, hope no one sticks their fingers with a pin, can't stand the sight of blood. 

Have a great day!
Leslie

FROM MARILYN ELLIOTT, SAN ANTONIO, TX
Teaching at Hancock depends a great deal on local store manager - they either make it very easy and friendly or the opposite.  I have worked with 4 different store managers, most recently with Marilyn Montano who has just moved from San Antonio to Richmond, VA who is the best I have worked with yet!  The Brookhollow store (San Pedro at Brookhollow, San Antonio, TX) does not have a class room so space must be set up for each class.

When I am in the store, on class days or other times, I answer questions by store employees or at their request for customers.  Store employees are allowed to attend any class at no charge.

I have been teaching beginning sewing classes (3 different classes, each for 5 weeks, 2 ½ hour per week) and fit classes with differing number of weeks but also 2 ½ hour per session.  In addition, several 2-hour classes (2 hours-2 skirts; Top 20 tips to improve fashion sewing).  Normal class size is 3 to 6 students for hands on classes.  There is not space for larger classes in that store.

Best part - store puts up posters at door and other locations in store (attached is spring 2007 poster - 11 x 17 which I print for store), teaching area is set up and ready for students 30 minutes prior to class time, all students receiving 10% discount of items purchased on evening of classes.

It would be very helpful if I could include classes in the Hancock flyers which are mailed in this area.  Other classes are sometimes included in these flyers but I have been unable to figure how to do so - and the store managers don't seem to know either.  When I have called the San Antonio area manager, I am unable to reach anyone but an assistant. 


Marilyn Elliott
Flexware Systems Inc
Phone 210-341-9188
Fax 210-530-0102
marilyn@flextx.com

NEWS FROM MARY MCCARTHY, ROCKLEDGE, FL

HI Pati,

The attached is what I'm doing for the first time, tomorrow. I plan to show the 20 tips slides.

Also, I wanted to mention that, while teaching my first day of Clothing Construction 2 at a college in Orlando (International Academy of Design & Technology), the topic was Fit, so I presented the Fit and Pant slides. I told them I was going to change the way they looked at theirs and others' wardrobes, from now on.

One of the midterm test questions will be :point to the problem when assessing fit in a garment (wrinkles!). One of the texts used for Couture is Roberta Carr's book.

I think there is a branch of this school in Seattle. It's interesting to teach millennials, instead of middle aged hobbyists. The article in the SQE magazine was very nice on DIYStyle.

Good things are happening!

Regards,

Mary

NOTE: I WILL ATTACH A PDF OF HER FLYER.

FROM DENNY PETERSON, SAHUARITA, AZ

Pati

I received your VIP newsletter and was surprised to see my e-mails to you
in there.  Fun stuff.  I also received the Business of Teaching Sewing
Book.  It's very good.  And I was also surprised to see my photo in
there.  You and Ethel did a great job with my makeup, clothes, hair and
photography.  My mother was thrilled. 

I guess it's time to give you another update about my sewing classes.
After having just 1 student in my level 2 class, I have 3 students in my
level 3 class.  One is the student from level 2, another is the quilt
shop owner and the third is a neophyte quilter and garment sewer.  I'm
having a great time and my two "real" students are having a great time,
although the newest sewer said that she wouldn't call the collar "fun."
The quilt shop owner says that she's glad that she learned the skills for
putting in a collar and sleeves, but all garments she will make from now
on will be collarless and sleeveless (she's not a fan of sewing slowly)!
No one signed up for level 4 and a conflict came up in my calendar so the
shop owner and I decided to cancel that set of classes.  However, we're
going to run the beginning sewing classes again, but we're going to try
for Saturday classes this time around, so that might increase attendance.


The quilt shop owner also asked me to teach a jumper class.  She and I
selected a Kwik Sew pattern that is easy and recommends cotton in its
suggested fabrics.  I'll make a sample and keep track of how long it took
me to make it and decide how many classes we'll need to get that done.
From reading the instructions, I think 3-4 classes of 3 hours each.  At
least 3 and maybe 4.  I saw in the Business book, to multiply by 2 or 3
the amount of time for beginning adult sewers to do what I do. 

The shop owner and others also asked for a fit class, but I don't feel
confident enough to teach that class yet.  I haven't taken the class on
that yet!  Much less the teacher training.  I have read the Fit For Real
People book and I now have the DVD (just got here today).  I have several
P/P fit patterns, but I haven't tried any of them yet.  I didn't realize
their value until last fall.  I know I can do it.  I just don't have the
experience yet.  Soon, I hope.

The quilt shop owner also commented on how good the Learn to Sew pattern
for the pajamas is.  I also showed her a couple of the other P/P garment
patterns and she was impressed with the quality of the patterns and
instructions.  While she's not a garment sewer per se, she has sewn some
simple garments, both intended as quilted garments and not, so she can
tell what good instructions look like.  I'll study some of the P/P fit
patterns to see what might work for another class later. 

Anyway, this wasn't as brief as I had intended it, but I want you to know
what's going on here with me.  And enjoy your honeymoon in Mexico!!

Denny Peterson

Denneen L. Peterson, P.C.; P.O. Box 11277; Tucson, Arizona  85734;
520-399-1663; 520-399-1828 (fax)

This letter is how Denny promoted the classes:

Hello!

I have some new sewing classes coming up soon!!  These classes are at
Hearts and Hands in Green Valley, Arizona.  I'm teaching some beginning
sewing classes (apron, robe & PJs), a zipper class, a vest and pants
class, and a class on 20 Tips to Improve Your Fashion Sewing. 

If the beginning classes are too basic for you, do you know someone new
to sewing who might be interested?

If you're still nervous about zippers, the zipper class is a good chance
to practice and lose that fear!

The vest and pants is an easy unlined vest with a bias bound front and
armholes.  The pants are center back zipper pants.  This is a McCall's
Palmer/Pletsch pattern that was designed to take advantage of the great
quilter's cottons!  Come sew and have fun! 

The 20 Tips class is a seminar type class where we'll cover lots of tips
for various aspects of your fashion sewing--facings, zippers, a little
bit on fit and other necessary items. 

I hope you can join me!  Take a look at www.heartsandhandsquilts.com and
click on "newsletter." 

Denny Peterson; Sahuarita, Arizona

Hello!

I'm teaching another round of beginning sewing classes!  If you are
interested, or know someone who might be, check out
www.heartsandhandsquilts.com.  Then click on "newsletters."  That lists
all of the classes offered at this wonderful quilt shop, including the
beginners' classes that I'm teaching. 

I hope to see you this summer!

Denny Peterson

Denneen L. Peterson; HC 70 Box 3166; Sahuarita, Arizona  85629;
520-648-3984

CINDY CHAMBERS, CALGARY, CANADA

Hi Pati & Marta,

I'm taking you up on your offer of emailing a question, as I can't seem to find reference to this anywhere.  I've had the problem with myself and never been happy with how I've resolved it, and have now also found the same issue with a student.

When tissue fitting a jacket/blouse pattern, the pattern waist is longer than actual waist  - but by significantly different amounts in front & back.  If I was to shorten the front by 1" to bring the waist marking to the actual waist, and shorten the back by 2" to bring it to the actual waist, I've now got side seams that are 1" different in length.  This is too much to handle via ease in the seam.  How do I shorten the back to bring the waist where it should be, and still have side seams that match each other?

Thanks for your help.

PATI’S ANSWER

Cindy ,

It sounds like the person needs a sway/flat back alteration. This will make the center back the same distance from the waist  as at the side seam. First, shorten the front and back equally to make the waist at the front and side correct. Then make a dart tuck in the back to nothing at the sides. This will make everything hang properly. Pati

JANICE WALSH, UNIONVILLE, CT

Things are going very well!  I am teaching at two dealerships in CT -not all of the classes are beginner sewing classes, but I am teaching!  June will be another busy month before the summer slowdown. I will be renewing my CSI as well. Have a wonderful summer,

Janice Walsh

ANNE OHME, PIKE ROAD, ALABAMA

I have been teaching a lot since the first of February. I had to postpone my January classes due to a short detour to the hospital but all is well now. I am teaching Beginner Classes regularly and will finish a Fit class this week. My Pant Fit class will start next week. All courses are six class sessions. Serger classes have really taken off. I have already taught SEWING WITH SERGERS and CREATIVE SERGING in February and will start these classes again next week. The lesson plan and teaching materials from my CREATIVE SERGING Teacher Training have been great!!

The local store manager mentioned a "Coffee and a Project"  promotion. I'm not sure what it is but will help as much as I can. Good management/teacher relations and all that stuff. 

There is only one of me and I'm not as young as I use to be so I don't teach in the summer. Maybe I can catch my breath and work up an advertising flyer. I do help Hancocks out with demo's and some promotional activities during the summer.

I just wanted to check in. Say "Hello" to Marta for me.

Fondly, Ann Ohme 

CINDY LEVINSKI, LITTLETON, NH

Dear Pati,

Thank you for sending me the updated issue of "The Business of Teaching Sewing".  Ironically enough, it arrived on the same day that I found a place to teach!

I will be teaching a 2-day workshop at the New Hampshire Community Technical College in June. If that class goes well, the college will consider the teaching of the Beginner Sewing courses for the fall. Hopefully, If that happens, the timing won't interfere with the P/P Fit seminar that I would like to attend!

Sincerely,

Cindy Levinski

Littleton, NH

PROMOTING CLASSES

This is an e-mail ad that one of our Aussie teachers sent me.  Note the class cancellation policy. It is good!